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Relativitijds theorie

De MKIII supra, het bestaansrecht van shoarmateam.nl heeft hier zijn thuis.

Moderators: Jos, mmarkk

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STRNPCP
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Relativitijds theorie

Post by STRNPCP »

Even een paar info links over (advance) timing en dergelijke, ter lering ende vermaek van de suprahobbyist:

http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/timing.htm

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268106

http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S10_Timing.html

http://www.centuryperformance.com/timing.asp

En aanvullende info links zijn altijd welkom!

STRNPCP
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Post by STRNPCP »

Nog een nuttige:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showth ... nce+timing

en eentje van Bishop over zijn N/A mods:
Timing - Factory setting is 10btdc. If you run high octane gas, 91-93 octane, you can increase your timing to 14-16btdc. To do this, short the T and E1 in the diagnostic box (just like you're checking engine codes). Using a timing light, check your timing. It should be around 10 degrees. Now, loosen the screw on the distributor that allows it to rotate. While watching the timing, rotate the distributor until the timing reaches what you want. Then tighten the distributor back down. Its not recommended that you go over 14 degrees unless you have some way to see detonation or if you just don't care like me :) The stock N/A computer is very slow to respond to knock and increasing your timing that much can cause damage if you do not have an alternate means to pick up inaudible knock.

Link: http://ma70.com//bishop/

STRNPCP
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Post by STRNPCP »

Daarentegen deze: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showth ... nce+timing

DONT ADvANCE!
On some Na cars it is ok to advance the intail timing-to a certain degree! On chevy 350's an the like it was common knowledge that advancing the timing was key to success-because of the huge bore , it took time for the flame front to travel across the whole area in order to ignite all the air and fuel-so naturally more timing was needed to speed the process up. Plus they were running(most) off distributors back in the day-in which spark doesnt travel as fast and as abundant as our coil packs do now-and the ls1/lt1 coilpacks.
Since our motor doesnt have a really large bore compared to v8's it doesnt take as long to ignite everything in the cylinder-thus less timing is needed. The coil packs are very hot on the turbo models, and the na have a pretty decent coil to jump the spark from the dis -to the plug. I noticed that the best power with my na was had at 18degrees initial-but , it only lasted thre months-why is that?
The reason it only lasted three months is because its too much timing. The cylinder was completely firing before tdc-too far before -so as the piston was coming up -it would fire as it was coming up and cause a serious downward force of combustion , while the crank is still forceing the piston up and over tdc, this hammers the rod bearings out of our motors!!
Turbos are like nos in alot of respects -both need more fuel-and less initial timing.I run 7 degrees on my na/turbo frankensstiened motor and i sacrifice the extra few horsepower for reliability. When you adavnce the timing, the cylinder pressures go from 2000psi on up to 6000 psi and this lifts head gaskets, breaks rods, and spins rod bearings-and can even crack a 7mgte crank at 10,300 -at only 15 psi of boost-personal experience there...
If it were me and i had my na car again-i wouldnt touch the timing,unless i wanted to run lower octane fuel-and if i planned on doing that i would knock the timing down to 10-11 degrees initially.
I used to bump the initial timing up as high as 20 degrees on a turbo mk3 , and outrun nearly everyone at 13 psi -immediately off the line, but it was not relaible to say the least,I went thru quite a few junkyard motors doing that- thats when i learned-advanceing the timing on turbo car=bad.If you ask me i think the timing curve on the stock turbo supras is a little too much from the factory, because of the coil packs-i think they speed things up a bit. And from what ive seen on a stock turbo mk3 vs a stock na mk3-the timing curves are damned near identical. That cant be good!!!

The only time that i would change the timing was if i was running some superior race gas-then maybe id advance a few degrees-then lower it back down before i run out of that "special fuel".Hope that helps.
To read more about this check out "21st century performance"
or "Maximum boost" by COrkey Bell or "THe hondas handbuilders book" by Joe Pettitt.
Kris WEldy

STRNPCP
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Post by STRNPCP »

Eén met heel veel info in pdf files (let op #40):
http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html

kolkie
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Post by kolkie »

Nice.

Er komt nog een keer een dag dat ik wat dingetjes ga proberen op mijn 1.3 (aangezien ik bv. altijd al eur 98 tank moet dit in theorie kunnen). Alleen jammer dat ik 'm de komende tijd zeg maar 'regelmatig' nodig heb.
Who needs new cars anyway - '88 Sjonniebeemer (E30 325i sans la lettre) + Mazda MX-5/Miata 1.8'
ik dus :P 2014 Fusion, 2015 Mustang
Een dag geen post is een dag geen bekeuring :D !


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